Mostar is full of parallel structures. Rubbish companies, schools, government departments, cultural centres, universities, hospitals: one for Croats, one for Bosniaks; one in the west, the other in the east. Many Croats still fly the Croatian flag. At a cafe in western Mostar, I am given a bill that seems unusually large for a cup of coffee until I realise that the waitress has written the bill in kuna, the Croatian currency, even though Bosnia's convertible mark is more stable. "I am not comfortable with the other thing," she explains. Before the war, Bosniaks and Croats accounted for about one-third each of the city's 120,000 inhabitants (the rest were Serbs, Jews, Roma and others). Today, with the population down to 110,000, nearly 70 per cent are Croats
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